Saumur

Today’s ride was an 11-mile tootle up the Loire to Saumur. The path was partly single-track dirt, partly narrow gravel, and partly pavement, and all traffic free. No wheat fields, no tumbles, no flats, and no stairways — I call that success.

We did collect a bit of mud and grass under our fenders, and every time Dave stopped to clean out the muck, the same very friendly French guy caught up to us and stopped for a chat.

We got to ask him our burning questions about the Loire: Are there salmon? Probably not anymore. Can you swim in the river? It’s not allowed except in a few places because of dangerous currents. But yes, it’s clean enough for swimming. 

Lunch was the centerpiece of the day. At Ruby’s suggestion, we decided to splurge on a restaurant meal. And ever-so-fitting, as Saumur is supposed to have the best restaurants in the region. Off to a crepe place. It was a huge meal, rich and sumptuous, and we ate every scrap. I’m sharing details for Chris Peterson’s benefit. :-)

For Dave, a local rose cider (oh my gosh, sweet, bubbly and delicious) —

And a buckwheat crepe with huge slabs of local blue cheese, house smoked bacon, and Emmental cheese (oof) —

For me, a crepe with leek cream, mushrooms, sun dried tomatoes and Emmental (scrumptious) —

And for the kids, something a lot more predictable and less exotic. Butter and sugar crepes for dessert for the kids (oof).

Completely stuffed, we embarked on a mercifully short ride uphill, only to find that, predictably, the chateau was closed (Monday). We will return tomorrow before we send Dave off on the train to Nantes to fetch our deluxe — er — utility van. Onward!

— Liv