Rolling through France
Today was as close to routine as we seem to get. Wake up after an odd night’s sleep in a campground where many people stay up later than we do, and all sorts and conditions begin their days stumbling about, some loading bikes, some their Vespas, others their cars. And then we ramble on down another canal on a dirt track. Frankly we feel like we have already done the dirt track on canal tour, and are ready to move on to something a little different -
It was nice that we got an early start today because it was so dry, so we were rolling before the heat really arrived. Sadly we did not happen upon an appropriate bakery until lunchtime, so there was a fairly substantial pastry deficit as the morning went on. We have already mapped out our bakery for tomorrow morning just to make sure that we don’t fall into that same trap again.
We are now (finally) attempting to follow an official Euro Velo route (Number 15 FWIW) which goes from the head of the Rhine in Switzerland all the way North to the Netherlands. It is usually well signed, except when it isn’t.
We have purchased and downloaded a wonderful guide that has turn-by-turn directions and maps for the entirety, but with our special navigational skills, we still seem to find ways to diverge from the route and then rely on our collection of digital devices to get us where we are going. The guide does have a wealth of information on the places we are passing through that we otherwise never would catch. Tomorrow’s leg looks like it involves no turns, and just follows a canal from here towards Strasbourg. It will take effort and dedication, but we should still be able to stray at some point.
Tonight's campground is blessedly well shaded, with all kinds of special cyclist amenities like chairs with backs (I nearly wept when I saw them) and a picnic table in our spot, as well as a communal (cyclist only) fridge and microwave. There also is a power strip (next to me, as I am using it too) with several thousand dollars worth of cameras and phones and batteries all charging away. A very nice site. The kids have enjoyed spending the afternoon just hanging out and playing their endless story game that Lyle continues to narrate for Ruby.
Today we went through another chunk of Alsace that has been fought over for centuries, most recently in WW2 when a large group of local French gave themselves to slow down the retreating German army. Both sides paid heavily, and there is a monument to the French. We then passed through the forest where these two groups slugged it out and fought and died. So sad. Traveling along surrounded by folks from both sides, all people, luckily living within the EU. A chap from Berlin that we were talking with recently reiterated how important it was for people all throughout Europe to be able to freely travel to the other countries and vacation there, as it allows everyone to recognize the common humanity of us all. Hopefully it is harder to get into shooting wars when everyone recognizes that commonality. The forest today was a sad reminder of what happens when that is lost.
Tomorrow most of the way to Strasbourg, and then we’ll see.
-Dave
It's gonna be tough ridding my brain of the picture of you, Dave, weeping at the sight of a chair with a back. How far do we go with this deprivation experiment? Otherwise, it sounds as if the journey is progressing nicely, except maybe for the boring canal routes. Maybe you'll find some nice lazy country lanes to speed you along, and fun villages to explore. And some day it's bound to cool down a bit. Any other tandems on the touring routes?
ReplyDeleteNo tandems to speak of! We’ve seen one loaded tandem with a Bob on the whole trip, and we never got to see who was riding it. Hope you’re getting some relief for your back today...
DeleteWonderful entry, Dave. Thank you so much. We live for these little reports. You had me laughing out loud with your special navigation skills. Thank goodness you planned your route around a pastry shop tomorrow, hahaha. Hope you guys get a decent night's sleep tonight in that gorgeous camp site. Very poignant description of the forest battles and reflection on the EU. Don't forget to sing rounds as you bike along the boring canal--it'll help you pass the time nicely. :)
ReplyDeleteThanks, Dave---great description of your day. That velo 15 route sign is quite confusing and easy to miss! Liv, you may not remember that your ancestors (Gpa Wild's mother's side) lived in that part of Alsace-Lorraine that kept being traded back and forth between France and Germany. They kept both the French and the German flags in the house, and flew whichever one was appropriate at the moment.
ReplyDeleteNeat story!
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